Traffic Controls, Schmaffic Controls: Getting around in Paraguay

Unless you have nerves of steel, can let anything roll off your back or are suicidal, don’t drive in Paraguay. Walk or take a cab. The few traffic controls in place, such as stop lights or lane markings in the capitol city of Asuncion, seemed to be regarded as suggestions only rather than law. As a result however, some of the vehicular infractions I witnessed, including cutting someone off, passing in a no-passing zone and running a red light hardly registered even a horn blow. The small of these gaffes in the U.S. would’ve provoked the worst case of road rage imaginable.

During the cab ride from the airport to the hotel the first night, the driver straddled the middle line for most of the journey. At least this road had one. For many of the streets, any type of markings for lanes or the shoulder simply does not exist. At intersections where a stoplight stands, drivers fill in the street curb to curb in a random fashion like irregular shaped rocks clogging the bottom of a chute. If a vehicle fits into an empty space, one will be there.

Where no stoplight or sign stands, cars venture into the intersections with trepidation, looking for an opening in the cross-traffic. What designates an ‘opening’ is up to the discretion of the driver. Minor traffic jams appear as motorists on the side streets mingle with the main thoroughfare and then disappear with a minimum of horn-honking.

(Note the absence of stoplights, stop signs and traffic police in this intersection.)

In fact, everyone appears to take such things in stride. The most egregious faux pas of one driver against the next, passing in a no-passing zone on a hill, did not result in any horn-blowing or flipping the finger which are guaranteed among U.S. drivers in such cases. In our cross-country trek to Brazil, I was reminded of my years in Texas as a Mercedes-Benz passed our vehicle on a hilltop in a no-passing zone as if he were too prosperous to be bothered with obeying traffic laws. But buses and trucks are not at all above taking advantage of this opportunity to move up in the queue of cars. Our driver also made his move to pass two cars on a rise, but made it past only one before a vehicle came over the crest heading toward us. Although there was no room between the two cars, the driver of the rear vehicle eased off and let us in front of him, without any visible reaction. Imagine a motorist in the U.S. not taking this as a personal insult and affront!

Zipping in and out traffic between cars, trucks and vans are the motor bikes which by nature of its economic advantages are a widely-used mode of transportation. The riders exhibit even less regard for themselves or other motorists as they squeeze into small spaces between cars, whether traffic is moving or not. When the light turns green and everyone moves through the intersection, cars fan out taking as much of the road as they can without getting into on-coming traffic. Remember that lanes may or may not be indicated. The motorcyclists take advantage of the larger gaps, pressing their advantage to move forward. Among our fellow commuters one day was a young man with his wife sitting behind him and a toddler sandwiched between them. Despite the noise and commotion, the kid appeared to be sound asleep.

In the border town of Ciudad del Este, they’re even more aggressive and suicidal. Here, many of them run taxi services, carting people back and forth between Paraguay and Brazil, even if it means using the sidewalks when traffic stalls.

In the rural Paraguayan countryside, the motorcyclists are more prevalent but less intrusive. The morning shift mobilized in one small community as we passed through, buzzing around us like bees protecting the hive and making sure we weren’t a threat. The country folk stick mainly to the shoulder of the highway, using it as opposed the lanes which are clearly marked.

Young women are as likely to be operating motorcycles as the men. People traveled in twos and even threes, clutching tightly to each other. Since this is their only mode of transportation, the motor bikes are used to haul cargo as well as passengers. One such fellow had three large boxes strapped to the back of his bike, to the point that he could not be seen from behind. I glanced at him as we passed and saw his lap was filled with cargo as well. In the Lago Ypicarai area, one cyclist’s buddy held a large harp, while riding on the back of the bike. It was a sight to give any harpist’s heart to skip a beat.

As I mentioned earlier, the city bus is not an attractive alternative, either. My colleague was strongly advised to remove her watch if she opted for the bus. Whether this was only a stern warning or a dose of reality, we decided to take a cab.

Walking is the best alternative, especially for short distances since you can enjoy the sites and sounds of the city. While riding in a vehicle, it’s extremely difficult to take pictures while holding on for dear life.